Friday, June 12, 2009

Island adventure

Can you imagine yourself in Mauritius, with one of South Africa’s hottest celebrities, working hand-in-hand to win a R1 million prize, with you keeping half and the celeb getting half?

Oh, and don’t forget the delicious cocktails, the excitement and the adventure that goes with the whole island scene.

Ten fans will be selected to pair up with 10 local celebrities for the Tropika Island Of Treasure challenge, which will take place in Mauritius in May.

The celebrities include Idols star Gift Gwe, Rhythm City actress and singer Pam Andrews, champion surfer and sports model Roxy Louw, R&B singer Loyiso Bala, singers Kelly Khumalo and Nadine, comedians Kagiso Lediga and Joey Rasdien, model and actor Heino Schmitt, and the sexy and sassy Zuraida Jardine.

Winners and celebrities will fly to Mauritius in the last week of May to spend a week enjoying sun-kissed hospitality at the Tamassa Hotel.

To share a tropical island holiday with your favourite celebrity, grab a Tropika drink and follow the on-pack guidelines.

The competition runs until April 30. For more information, go to www.tropika-island.co.za.

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Outdoor Adventure Travel South Africa - Dirty Boots

Friday, May 22, 2009

High Flying

For an exhilarating experience and a new perspective on nature, it's hard to beat a canopy tour.

All the glitz and glamour of fast living is not for me, mainly because I don't have the style or the money to back it up. So it was nice to discover that I could have a chance at being a "high-flyer" - even if it was just for three short hours in the Karkloof Forest, outside Howick in the KwaZulu-Natal midlands. This was real, true high flying in the deepest, most meaningful sense of the word.

Even though the Karkloof Forest is a shadow of its former self, it is still one of the most important indigenous forests in the province and to have the opportunity to pass through it - admittedly sometimes rather fast - is a privilege.

"Canopy Tours originated in the lush rainforests of Costa Rica where adventurous biologists, desperate to learn more about the diversity of animal life inhabiting the upper canopy levels, devised a system of cables and platforms that would allow them to explore this previously inaccessible ecosystem," explained Mark Brown of Tree Top Tours who, together with Anton Barnes, designed and built the Kirkwood canopy tour.

Having seen how the Costa Ricans developed these tours into a popular eco-tourism activity that not only provided visitors with a holiday highlight, but also raised awareness of the plight and beauty of the world's endangered indigenous forests, Mark returned to South Africa. He teamed up with Stormsriver Adventures and launched the first canopy tours in the Tsitsikamma forests on the Garden Route.

The second South African canopy tour was built in Karkloof. Young men from the local community were trained by Mark's team and Anton, the owner of the property, to become guides. The "tour" consists of seven platforms joined together by eight steel cables. Four platforms have been built on sturdy steel towers standing on the forest floor. One tower rests on a large boulder and two other platforms had to be fixed to the side of a cliff. The distance between the platforms ranges from 40 to 175 metres and the cables hang up to 30 metres above the forest floor. I found the idea of this rather daunting, but the reality was awesome. Before heading off into the forest, our group was gathered together by lead guide Africa Maldonado.

Africa has been intimately involved in Karkloof Canopy Tours since its inception, first with the building and then as a guide. He explained all the safety gear and procedures and then we were "kitted out" by safety guides Raphael Thusi and Busizwe Mbokazi before being driven out to the drop-off point.

A short walk through the forest took us to the start of the trail, called the "Rabbit Hole". The first section of the trail is called "Last Chance". It is quite short and gives the guides a chance to see whether you are going to manage doing the trail on your own or whether you will need to go tandem with one of them for the rest of the trail. After this, there is no turning back.

I don't like heights so I decided to bite the bullet and go first after Raphael, who would be there to see me safely onto the next platform. I simply would not have managed to watch everyone else go, listening to their yells as they whizzed off down the cable, not being sure whether it was delight or terror. Just to reassure you - there were yells of delight.

From Last Chance there is a magnificent stretch of cable, up above the deep, dark forest canopy to a platform perched on the side of the cliff. "I tie you up here … like a dog," teased Busizwe (a little too gleefully I thought) as he immediately clipped me onto the safety cable as I landed. However, you feel anything but like a dog standing there, and more like an eagle surveying the expansive view over the forest and down across the Karkloof farmlands. It is totally awe-inspiring, especially after the minor adrenaline rush of flying out over the tree tops. The safety procedure takes place at each platform and is to prevent you going over the edge as the platform fills up - and you would be totally safe in the unlikely event of a platform collapsing.

Having made the first stretch I got a taste for it, but was then torn between joy of speed and the possibility of enjoying the scenery en route. I was first to arrive at the fabulous Waterfall Platform, and enjoying the water splashing down the cliff face into the forest just a few metres away made me decide that from there on I would go tandem so that I wouldn't need to concentrate on speed or stopping. I did one more short stretch over "Bums Up", where you need to go slowly so as not to crash into a rock or a thick tree branch, and from then, down the N1 to Bees Platform to Stinkwood and the beautiful, secluded River Platforms, Busizwe took control.

He pointed out small waterfalls, white ironwoods, orchids, sunbirds and many of the joys of this ancient forest that I might have missed otherwise.

He did have me laughing at one point, when halfway down the N1 I heard him chuckle and then saw his hands on either side of me as he yelled, "Look ma'am, no hands," as we accelerated down the cable. I screeched and yelled as we tore across the sky above the canopy.

Waiting for the other "flyers" to arrive on the platforms, Raphael and Busizwe pointed out old man's beard, snake lilies, wild cucumber creeper, massive Cape chestnuts and tree fuschias, climbing sage, wild peach, carrot ferns and red stinkwood. They explained some of the medicinal uses of many of the plants, giving a whole new dimension to the tour through the forest.

Even once we had been unclipped from the cable and begun our walk out of the forest back to the camp for lunch, I still felt exhilarated. This has got to be the best kind of high.

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Tuesday, March 10, 2009

South Africa's adventure diversity

William Lindsay

15 January 2009

Our family completed a wonderful tour of South Africa this past December. Our 18-day adventure tour took us from Johannesburg to Cape Town and interesting points in between, with a set of international travel companions from three continents.

We came back sunburnt, cut, scraped, sore - and thoroughly satisfied, as the end result of adventure tourism should be!

It was the big game parks and the country's post-apartheid era of change that initially drew us to this land.

As well, visiting the famous Paul Kruger National Park and the historic and political black township of Soweto were certainly everything advertised and expected. The big game animals that Africa is famous for were a thrill to see.

Cultural/historical/political dynamic

Also, the cultural/historical/political dynamic that is prevalent in this land was fascinating to observe. The apartheid era ended only about 15 years ago and the Asian, black and white people are apparently still feeling each other out, so to speak.

But it was our observation that there is a relative sense of peace and security here that is missing in many other parts of Africa.

On our sojourn, we were delighted at how beautiful and varied the South African landscape is. From rolling green hills, fertile lands, soaring mountain ranges, plunging canyons, near jungle environments, Indian Ocean-side paradises, semi-desert regions, big city settings, and a non-stop montage of small African villages, it was one unexpected surprise after another.

The Barrier of Spears

Particularly beautiful and memorable was the Drakensberg Mountain Range, a world heritage site in the northeast corner of the country. Called "The Barrier of Spears," this impenetrable-looking wall of mountains looks like a cross between the Grand Canyon and the Grand Tetons in Wyoming. Drakensberg is a favourite vacation spot for many South Africans and they take justifiable pride in it.

Our tour guide took us on a 16-kilometre hike as part of our time spent in the Drakensberg Mountains. It was a challenging experience, to be sure, as my bad knee swelled up like a grapefruit during the course of this adventure, as a result of all the climbing and descending.

Still, the mountain vistas, the alpine meadows, the plethora of local flowers, plants and insects, a cascading waterfall, examples of Bushman rock art, and the curious mountain antelope and noisy baboons made for a memorable day.

Night-time miracle

However, it was a middle-of-the night event that caused my visit here to rise to the level of the sublime.

I awoke and walked outside my mountain cabin to a night-time miracle of sight and sound so spectacular it took my breath away: a three-quarters full moon lighting up the alpine landscape, the nearby mountain range a mixture of moon-tinged clarity and shadowy quarters, moonlit clouds reaching over a part of the range like a ghostly waterfall, croaking frogs and chirping insects adding a background harmony of natural sound, the Southern Cross and Orion constellations standing out in the midst of a starry belt above, with the lights of a faraway African settlement providing an earthly contrast.

Just me and South Africa in the middle of the night.

It was a breathtaking, emotional moment and it ended up being one of the highlights of a fantastic 18-day tour of this beautiful country.

The lesson here is that there is more to South Africa than the great game parks. Pay a visit to the Drakensberg Mountain Range and other parts of this wonderful land and I guarantee that you won't regret it.

William Lindsay of Vancouver teaches at the University of British Columbia. The Lindsays' tour was hosted by Drifters Adventure Tours.

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Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Adventure Travel: 40 days & 40 nights - Lesotho to the Sea : An Orange River Adventure

There are any number of ways of celebrating the entry into the best years of a mans’ life. What you may need to experience this milestone is: a best friend turning 40; a serious wander’s lust; and wives, partners and businesses with open minds and generous hearts to facilitate six weeks off to allow the planned adventure to become a reality. This is how Quinton Miller & I came to travel nearly 2000kms down the Orange River from the Telle bridge on the Lesotho border with South Africa to Alexander Bay on the Atlantic Ocean.You can look at the Top 10 Gallery to see pictures relating to the story.(Picture 1) This is the border post with Lesotho which is about an hour and a half’s drive from Aliwal North where we had slept over the previous night on our journey from Cape Town. The river was almost non existent here so we headed about 5km’s downstream to where the Senqu river joins the Orange and there appeared to be a bit more water flowing from there. Our first 2 days were very frustrating with low water levels resulting in us pulling, pushing and dragging our kayaks over shallow sand banks. The first night it rained all through the night and it resulted in a bit more flow, but still not enough for our heavily laden boats to cruise over the sand banks. Once we got to the Zastron bridge on the border of the Eastern Cape with the Free State the water flowed much faster though a magnificent gorge and into the valleys below. Our plan to do about 60 plus km’s a day was not possible with the current water flow levels, so we were beginning to fall behind with our planned schedule. On our arrival back on the 4th day in Aliwal North, where we had arranged accommodation at a lodge for the 3rd night, we were greeted by the local police who were about to send out a search and rescue team as we were 1 day late for booking in to the lodge. Turns out there was a police conference at the lodge and one thing led to another and between the management and the police they decided we were missing! Everyone was relieved that we were safe and the rescue guys seemed disappointed that they would not being sent into action!! We certainly were not worried at all.(Picture 2) The Orange River is also known by its African name of Gariep and this picture was taken on the Gariep Dam while we were breaking for an energy bar and some Cytomax. The temperature was well over 30degreesC and there was not a breath of wind. About 4 hours after this picture was taken a thunderstorm came rushing in from the south with thunder and lightning and rain for about half an hour. Luckily we just made it to Oviston and found shelter under the boat shed!!In the famous town of Oranje we were joined by friends and family for the Easter weekend. There was much interest in the Koeksister monument that we discovered outside of the municipal swimming pool and under the watchful eye of HF Vervoerd’s memorial up on the hill behind. Our family and friends then paddled with us for 5 days through the well known stretch “Thunder Alley” and on to the Douglas area where we bid them farewell after treats of easter eggs and hot cross buns.(Picture 3) The confluence of the Vaal and Orange rivers was a milestone for us and we were hoping that there would be lots of water flowing down the Vaal to help us on our trip but sadly it was only knee deep here and not much help at all. This spot is also directly under the Cape Town to Johannesburg flight path so next time you are on that flight have a look down and see where the two rivers meet near the town of Douglas.(Picture 4) This shelter was a welcome sight on another stinking hot day and we happily chilled under this fisherman’s secret spot and had some lunch and a bit of a snooze till the heat of the day passed by.(Picture 5) We camped on the riverbanks on most nights but occasionally we found a nice little island like this one that seemed just perfect for the two of us. The problem with the island camps is that they generally have dew through the night so we would rig up a tent structure using our paddles and tarpaulins to good effect. It worked like a charm here but luckily we did not have to worry about gale force Cape winds!!(Picture 6) The landscape is always intriguing and the colours are constantly changing through the day. This mountain did have black stones and a local farmer told us that it was used as his border line due to the distinct difference in colour so nobody could question him about his border. The contrast in this area of the river, green trees and dry mountainside is very prominent along the Namibian and South African border stretch of the Orange river.(Picture 7) Due to the low river levels in April we had to portage a lot more than we would have liked to. However this portage of the Richie Falls in the Orange River gorge area we were expecting. Quinton and I were fortunate to have our friends Steve and Sue join us for this stretch and the extra hands to help lower the kayaks and take some pictures in the boiling heat was a blessing. We don’t know what we would have done if it had been just the two of us!! The distance from the top of the gorge to the water was about 25-30m so we had to do it in two stages and using two ropes for safety. All our heavy gear we carried down via a path and then boulder hopped over to the where Steve was standing with our kayaks. It was so hot that our butter melted in our small cooler box and we all enjoyed a quick swim before heading to the infamous rapids of Dolly Parton, 42 Man Hole and Big Bunny. Fortunately, or unfortunately, at this low level we were only able to enjoy the thrill of Big Bunny and sadly the other two were non- existent rapids. Our kayaks would not be suitable to shoot these rapids in medium to high levels as these are serious white water rapids for experts only in those conditions.(Picture 8) Our evening task of collecting wood was shared by the two of us and then we would make camp and get ready for a wash and warm up next to the fire. We used a combination of fires and or gas to cook our meals. The secret to collecting wood is always be on the look out for snakes and scorpions as they tend to live inside some of the dead wood found along the river. This picture was on the full moon and the golden light from the setting sun was amazing! It was also one of only 3 times in 40 days that we saw other people camping nearby. They were a couple of fly fisherman who had driven to the river with 4x 4 vehicles. There were many times that we did not interact with other people for days on end and our record for not seeing any other human beings was 3 days. When you consider that there are farms, towns, villages and roads all along this beautiful river it is really incredible that you can have the sense of being far from anything a lot of the time even though sometimes you can be close to civilization.(Picture 9) On our final day we left the mountains and hot weather behind and paddled in the mist past the new landscape of sand dunes. It was quite strange not being surrounded by mountains and gorges after 39 days on the river. The realization that our journey was almost over started to dawn on us and as we were within 8km’s from the sea we started to hear the waves. This sound was like music to my ears being a surfer and longing to see the sea. The mist was not clearing even though it was lunchtime so we paddled into the estuary of Alexander Bay by the sounds of the waves and the GPS telling us how far to go. The estuary is a “World of Birds” and I cannot tell you how many bird species we saw in the last few kilometers to the sea. We also could feel the spring high tide pushing the gentle swells through the estuary and this was coupled with the drop in water temperature and the taste of salt water.(Picture 10) This is the end of our adventure and our mantra of “To the Sea” was a thing of the past. Our journey of paddling about 1350km’s of the Orange river was now over and our focus had changed to a sand less meal, cold beers and the thoughts of having a hot shower and sleeping in a warm comfortable bed were really appealing.

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Dirty Boots

Monday, February 9, 2009

BIG FIVE

South Africa's most revered set of animals
The phrase Big Five Game was coined by game hunters and refers to the five large mammals that were originally most sought in Africa. The term is still used in most tourist and wildlife guides that discuss African wildlife.

The collection consists of the lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros. The members of the big five were chosen for the difficulty in hunting them and not their size, which is why the leopard is on the list and the enormous hippopotamus (noted for lazing around in pools and rivers all day) is absent.

The male lion, easily recognized by his mane, may weigh up to 250 kg (550 lb). Females are much smaller, weighing up to 136 kg (300 lb). In the wild lions live for around 10–14 years, while in captivity they can live over 20. Lions are predatory carnivores who live in family groups, called prides. The family consists of related females, their cubs of both sexes, and one or more unrelated males who mate with the adult females.

Although it was once thought that females did most of the hunting in the pride, it is now known that males contribute much more to hunting than the amount for which they had been previously given credit. Both males and females will defend the pride against outside intruders. Typically, males will not tolerate outside males, and females will not tolerate outside females. Males are expelled from the pride or leave on their own when they reach maturity. When or if a male coalition takes over a pride and ousts the previous coalition, the conquerors often kill any cubs that they did not father.

Like all other cats, lions are superpredators, but unlike all other cats they are social hunters and take prey too large and dangerous to overpower singly, including adult zebras, cape buffalo, giraffes, hippopotamuses, and even sub-adult elephants. Singly, a lion kills with the neck bite that breaks the neck or severs vital blood vessels; several lions may pin a large prey animal while another delivers the lethal neck bite or suffocates the prey by covering the victim's muzzle, preventing breathing. Lions are not averse to scavenging, and they frequently drive off smaller or outnumbered predators from kills and take the prey. Lions too can be driven off from prey by such competitors as hyenas and wild dogs in overwhelming numbers. Like other cats they have superb night vision that makes them more effective at night. They can sleep as many as 20 hours in a day.

Although it was once thought that lionesses did the bulk of the hunting and killing, it is now known that male lions contribute far more than they were originally given credit for. As a rule, all of the females of a pride are related (grandmothers, aunts, mothers, sisters). Both males and females defend the pride.

African Elephants have a thick, almost hairless skin, a long, flexible, prehensile trunk, upper incisors forming long curved tusks of ivory, and large fan-shaped ears.

Elephants are herbivores, spending 16 hours a day collecting plant food. Their diet is at least 50% grasses, supplemented with leaves, twigs, bark, roots, and small amounts of fruits, seeds and flowers. Because elephants only use 40% of what they eat they have to make up for their digestive system's lack of efficiency in volume. An adult elephant can consume 300 to 600 pounds (140 to 270 kg) of food a day. 60% of that food leaves the elephant's body undigested.

In the wild, elephants exhibit complex social behavior and strong familial bonds. Most females will live in family groups with up to 200 mothers, daughters and sisters. Males, on the other hand, are commonly found living alone or in smaller ( up to 20) temporary bachelor groups. Social hierarchy in calf-cow groups is based on size and age, with the largest and oldest at the top and the smallest and youngest coming in last. Adolescent males determine their own ranking order through jousting contests using head and tusks, where strength and temperament are as important as size and age. Generally, though, males are very tolerant of each other. The exception is when a female is in estrus. Bulls will roam from female group to group, staying with a specific female in estrus for a couple of days to ensure fertilization and will have no part in raising the calf. Females in estrus try not to court males, but usually choose a mate based on size and dominance, which tends to be a male in musth.

They communicate with very low and long-ranging subsonic tones.

Elephants, especially males, have been known to knock down trees and bushes when excited, socially pressured, or when looking for food.

These bovine animals are quite intimidating. They are the most dangerous of the "Big Five" game animals for hunters. They are definitely bovine characters, but also primal and with slightly mean appearance at times, despite the bouffant look of their horns.

The buffalo is up to 1.7 meters high, 3.4 meters long, and can reach a weight of 900 kilograms. The Cape Buffalo is a very powerful creature, demanding respect from even a pride of lions when paths cross. Other than man, they have few natural predators and are capable of defending themselves against (and sometimes killing) lions, who will attack only old, sick, or immature buffaloes. The leopard is a threat only to newborn calves. Crossbreeding with domestic cattle has had only limited success, and the African Buffalo remains a wild animal.

Known as one of the "big five" in Africa, the Cape Buffalo can be a volatile and formidable beast.

Cape Buffalo prefer areas of open pasture, close to jungle and swampy ground where they can wallow. They are found in Ethiopia, Somalia, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana, Mozambique and South Africa, with a significant seasonal presence in Kenya and Tanzania.

The main herd consists of all sexes and ages, though bachelor groups are also found. A male is recognizable by the thickness of his horns, and is called the "Boss." Bulls mature at eight years of age. Cows first calve at five years of age, after a gestation period of 11.5 months.

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Friday, February 6, 2009

Fun and sun in Durban

Durban, one of South Africa's top coastal cities, gives Cape Town (Kaapstadt) a run for its money during the festive season, with more than a million tourists alighting on its shores.

Durban offers not only the sun and beaches, but also entertainment galore - from beach festivals, to ocean marathons to cruises on the bay.

According to Tourism KwaZulu Natal, local and foreign tourism to the province increased over the festive season last year with improved figures. This has in part been attributed to the decline in the local currency (the Rand) against overseas currencies.

Beaches last year were busier than previous seasons and this port rallied to the influx by creating a buzz of cultural festivities and many forms of amusement. Every December a long list of exciting events are planned to enable visitors to this coastal resort to enjoy their stay. Holidaymakers can expect to take in several music festivals, while on the beaches alongside the hordes of bronzed bodies, there are bound to be sporting activities, such as national volleyball matches, touch rugby, and beach soccer.

And in the evenings there will be beachside festivities, crowded restaurants and chock-a-bloc pavement cafes and undoubtedly carols by candlelight. Even the local dolphinarium presents events like Carols and Dolphins by candlelight

But for those who don't like the throng, the beaches to the north or south of Durban are perhaps more inviting. Places like Port Shepstone, Margate or Umhlanga Rocks and Ballito always attract big crowds and offer plenty of holiday enjoyments. Way up north is St Lucia, a coastal town with vast wetlands, and an abundance of wild life, while even more north and slightly quieter or more pristine are Sodwana and Kosi Bay, near the Mocambique border. Close to these northern resorts are numerous private game reserves for safari lovers.

The largest and most popular in the area is the national Hhluhluwe and Umfolozi game park, where one can view the 'Big 5' game (elephant, lion, leopard, rhino, and buffalo), plus private game reserves. In addition KwaZulu-Natal is home to the largest concentration of black and white rhino in the world. Around these areas one can watch traditional Zulu dancing, listen to anecdotes of the history of Shaka Zulu and the mighty Zulu kingdom, or for the adventurous, even taste traditional Zulu fare and sleep in a Zulu hut overnight.

The St. Lucia Estuary is the largest natural estuary and lake system in Africa, populated with over 800 hippo, 2000 crocodiles, 150 different sea fish species, water birds, fish and micro-organisms. Lake St Lucia has an average depth of two metres and is a paradise for numerous bird species - more than 411 species - and 150 different fish species.

Aquatic birds such as flamingo, pelican and fish eagle are regular sights, while large shoals of fish and even sharks frequent the estuary for breeding purposes. Besides bird and animal watching one can take an estuary trip on the luxury river Boat, the Santa Lucia, lasting two hours, to see hippo, crocodiles and birds in their natural habitat.

Nearby a day's snorkelling can be enjoyed at Cape Vidal beach where beautiful fish and plant life abound. After the spectacular boat cruise the tour continues to the Crocodile, Snake and Cycad centre. Here guests encounter African crocodile species (The Nile crocodile, Long snouted crocodile and the Dwarf crocodile). For comparison there are also American Alligators. The crocodiles on display range from hatchlings to specimens of up to four metres long.

Visitors travelling north will be left breathless by the unspoilt beauty of the rugged beaches and lush, undulating hills of Northern KwaZulu-Natal. The coastline is known as the Dolphin Coast because of the vast number of dolphins seen frolicking and surfing in the azure waters of the warm Indian Ocean.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Bike Town : Coffee Bay, Wild Coast

The remote and rugged Wild Coast region, languishing between the Kei and Umngazi Rivers, must rate as one of South Africa’s most undiscovered cycling destinations. No wonder, as merely getting to the numerous, secluded getaways dotting this infamous, ship-killer shoreline constitutes a major adventure. But if you rate yourself as a staunch biking brave, a pedal into the heart of Pondoland will deliver the riding experience of a lifetime. Head for Coffee Bay if you’re keen to spliff out on the laid back calypso vibe characterising this sub-tropical coastline brimming with soaring cliffs and dense coastal forests leading onto beaches straight from a glossy travel magazine. To get there, follow the N2 south past Umtata for 18km and turn left to Coffee Bay along an 80km stretch of good tarmac road.

Find a Ride:

The undulating topography and wall to wall views of the Wild Coast makes for inviting riding along a selection of tarmac highways, gravel byways, footpaths and hiking trails. Beach cruising, especially along the southern section of the coast above Kei Mouth, add a sublime dimension to an off-road riding adventure that is out of this world. Hluleka, Dwesa, Silaka and a selection of small nature reserves gracing the coastline offer a combination of technical riding and bike-based game viewing, while the grassland slopes are crisscrossed with cattle footpaths and hiking trails. Access, with the exception of the nature reserves, is free, but care should be taken in the area as muggings, theft and intimidation have been reported. This is the exception to the rule though and I found the local amaXhosa people to be incredibly friendly.

Tarmac:

This is definitely one of those rides where one would rate the tarmac tribe as way more ballsy than the off-road guys. The Old Transkei roads are notorious for cowboy drivers who regularly take the law into their own hands, so extreme care should be exercised at all times. The safest section for a road ride is the ascent from Coffee Bay along the newly tarred route en route to Umtata, a stiff, 50km climb contouring towards Ngqungqu. Expect to work hard along the looping curves and hairpins as you crank away from the coastal plain before zigging into a whoop-it-up return ride.

Dirt:

If you want to ride the Wild Coast as part of an organised group, get in touch with 180 Degree Adventures (check out www.180.co.za) who operate the Wild Coast as a multi-day MTB ride. The Imana Wild Ride, scheduled annually for July or August, also allows a limited number of cyclists to cruise the coastline from The Kei to Umngazi River mouth as part of a sanctioned event. Solo rides are a dime a dozen along nearly 300km of coastline, but a good free-ride bike, topo map, compass (or preferably a GPS), ample food and water, as well as a bountiful sense of adventure, are prerequisites.

Food and Lodging:

Visitors to the Wild Coast often succumb to a condition locally known as Pondoland Fever, no doubt linked to the sampling of an organic mountain cabbage known around the world as Transkei Gold. Mind-altering substances are no prerequisite though – all you need to slow down your world is a few days in C-Bay. Check out Ocean View Hotel (Tel 047/575 2005 or email oceanview@coffeebay.co.za) for a fully catered stay or zone out at Coffee Shack Backpackers (Tel 047/575 2048 or email coffeeshack@wildcoast.co.za). Avoid the unfriendly Hole-in-the-Wall Resort and rather opt for camping, s/c or catered accommodation at the nearby White Clay complex (Tel 047/575 0008).

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